Have you ever seen a skirt that fits smoothly over the hips and then bursts into a beautiful, swishy flare at the bottom? It moves with a life of its own, turning a simple walk into something graceful. That lovely bit of magic is often created by a sewing technique called a godet (pronounced go-DAY).
It might look fancy and complicated, but I’m going to let you in on a little secret: it’s not that hard at all. A godet is one of those techniques that delivers a huge “wow” factor with just a little bit of careful sewing.
If you’ve been wanting to add more movement and personality to your handmade skirts, you are in the right place. This guide will show you exactly how to sew a godet skirt. We’ll break it down into simple, easy-to-follow steps, from drawing the pattern to sewing that perfect point. Let’s get started!
What Exactly is a Godet?
Before we start sewing, let’s talk about what a godet actually is. A godet is a triangular piece of fabric that you insert into a seam or a slash in a garment. Its main job is to add extra fullness and shape.
Think of it as a built-in flare. Instead of making the entire skirt wide, you can keep it fitted where you want it and add a burst of volume just where it’s needed. You’ll find them most often in skirt hems, but this clever trick can also be used to add flare to the bottom of sleeves or even along the panels of a dress. Learning this one skill opens up a world of design possibilities.
Getting Started: Your Pattern and Fabric
The easiest way to make a godet skirt is to start with a pattern that has seams where you can add them. A panel skirt, which is a skirt made from several vertical panels, is the perfect candidate. If you have a simple A-line or straight skirt pattern, you can easily turn it into a panel skirt by drawing a few vertical lines from the waist to the hem and cutting the pattern into sections.
This technique works beautifully with a wide range of fabrics. A lightweight fabric like rayon or chiffon will create a soft, drapey flow. A more stable fabric like cotton or linen will result in a more structured, sculptural flare.
Step 1: Drafting Your Godet Pattern Piece
The first step is to create the pattern for your triangular godet. This is simpler than it sounds. You only need to decide on two things: how long you want the godet to be, and how wide you want the flare.
First, look at your skirt panel pattern pieces. Decide where you want the flare to begin. Do you want a subtle kick near the hem, or a dramatic flare that starts higher up, around the knee? Mark this starting point on the seams of your skirt panels.
Now, measure the distance from that mark all the way down to the hemline. This measurement is the height of your godet.
Next, decide how much flare you want. The width of the godet’s base will determine this. A wider triangle means more swish!
Here’s a simple table to guide you in drafting the piece:
| Measurement Needed | What It Is | How to Get It |
|---|---|---|
| Godet Height | The length of the two longest sides of the triangle. | Measure from your desired start point to the hem on your skirt panel seam. |
| Godet Width | The width of the triangle at its base (the hem). | Your design choice. A good starting point is between 8 and 12 inches (20-30 cm). |
Once you have your numbers, grab a piece of paper. Draw a straight line for the height. At the bottom of that line, draw your width line, making sure the height line is in the center. Then, simply connect the top point to the ends of the width line to form your triangle. Finally, use a ruler to slightly curve the bottom edge so it looks like a shallow smile. This ensures the hem hangs evenly. Don’t forget to add your seam allowance around all three sides!
Step 2: Preparing and Sewing the Skirt Panels
Now that you have your godet pattern, it’s time to get the skirt ready. Cut out your skirt panels and your godet pieces from your chosen fabric.
The most important thing you can do at this stage is to mark your notches. A notch is just a tiny snip or a chalk mark on the edge of your fabric. Make a clear mark on your skirt panels right at the spot where the godet is supposed to start. This mark is your guide, and it will ensure everything lines up perfectly.
Take two of your skirt panels and pin them together. Now, sew that seam, starting from the waist and sewing down. But here is the key: stop sewing exactly at your notch. Backstitch a few times right at the notch to make the seam strong, then remove it from the machine.
Step 3: The Magic Moment: How to Sew the Godet In
This is where it all comes together. It may look tricky, but we’ll take it one side at a time.
Lay your sewn skirt panels on the table, right side up. You’ll see the seam you just sewed, with an opening below it. Now, take one of your fabric godet pieces.
Sewing the First Side: Place the godet piece on top of the skirt, with the right sides of the fabric facing each other. Line up one of the long edges of the godet with one of the open edges of your skirt seam. The most critical part is the top point. You want the very top point of the godet triangle to line up exactly with the last stitch of your panel seam. Pin it carefully in place, then sew from that point all the way down to the hem.
Sewing the Second Side: Now, flip the project over. You’re going to attach the other side of the godet to the other open edge of the skirt seam. Once again, the most important part is getting that top point perfect. Line it up precisely with your starting stitch.
Here’s a great tip: it’s often easier to sew this second side with the main skirt piece on top. This way, you can see your original stitch line where the panel seam ended. You can aim your needle to start in that exact same spot, which helps you get a perfectly sharp and clean point.
Finishing Your Godet for a Professional Look
You’ve done the hard part! Now it’s just a matter of making it look neat. The first step is to press your seams. I recommend pressing the seams of the godet open. This will help them lay flat and create a crisp, professional finish.
You may notice a little bit of tightness or puckering right at the top point of your godet. To fix this, carefully snip the skirt’s seam allowance almost to the stitch line at that point. This releases the tension and allows the fabric to lie perfectly flat.
Repeat this process for all the godets you want to add. Once they are all sewn in, you can sew your side seams, add a waistband, and hem your skirt.
FAQs
How can I make my skirt more flared?
Adding godets is a great way to add flare. Godets are triangles of fabric. They add lots of volume at the hem. You can also use a circle skirt pattern. This creates a very full, swishy skirt.
How to insert a godet in a skirt?
First, sew a seam on your skirt panel. Stop sewing where the godet will start. Pin the godet’s point right to that spot. Sew one side of the godet to the open seam. Then, sew the other side. Always press your seams flat.
What is the formula for a full flare skirt?
A full flare skirt is usually a circle skirt. You will need your waist measurement. Divide your waist measurement by 6.28. This gives you the radius for your waist hole. Use this number to draw the waist curve.
What is the easiest type of skirt to sew?
The easiest skirt for a beginner is a simple gathered skirt. It uses just a rectangle of fabric. You sew the side to make a tube. Then you add an elastic waistband at the top. It is very simple and fast to make.
What is the best fabric for flare skirts?
Fabrics with good drape are best for flowy flare. Try using rayon, chiffon, or tencel. These fabrics create a soft, swishy look. For more structure, use cotton or linen. These fabrics make the flare stand out more.
Your Skirt is Ready!
And there you have it! You’ve learned how to sew a godet skirt. By breaking it down into drafting the pattern, preparing the panels, and sewing the point carefully, you can tackle this impressive technique with confidence. It’s a wonderful way to take a simple skirt and turn it into something truly special.
Now it’s your turn. Pick a pattern, choose some fabric, and give it a try. We would love to see what you create, so feel free to share your projects or ask any questions in the comments below! Happy sewing
