⚡ Quick Answer: How to Sew a Scalloped Hem
To sew a scalloped hem, cut a facing strip that is deeper than your scallops plus a seam allowance, interface it, work out how many scallops fit the finished edge, mark them from the centre outwards, stitch the facing to the hem right sides together and pivot with the needle down at every V, trim to a quarter inch and clip the points, then turn, understitch and press over a ham.
A scalloped hem is a row of soft curves along an edge, and it is the fastest way to make a plain skirt, sleeve or napkin look like it came from a different sewing room. The curves are not decoration stitched on top. They are the edge itself, turned and pressed into shape.
Mithu has sewn scalloped hems on dresses, blouses, petticoats and table linen for 15 years, and the method below is the one that produces even curves on the first attempt. It needs no special foot, no embroidery unit and no printable template. It needs a round object, a steady pivot and a hot iron.
What a Scalloped Hem Is
A scallop is a segment of a circle, usually half a circle or a little less, drawn along the edge of a garment so the dome faces out into the hem. When the facing is stitched, trimmed and turned, the seam allowance becomes the crisp outline of each curve.
Scallops are unforgiving of hurry and very forgiving of care. The five minutes you spend on the maths and the template save an hour of unpicking a hem that waves in the wrong places.
Two measurements describe any scallop: its width, which is the straight-line distance from one V point to the next, and its depth, which is how far the dome rises above that line. For a first attempt keep the depth at about half the width or less. Shallow curves turn cleanly and press flat, while deep curves trap bulk in the point and refuse to lie down.
The hem edge you are decorating has to divide neatly into the number of scallops you choose. That single constraint decides the size of everything else, and it is the step most tutorials leave until it is too late to fix.
A scalloped hem reads as vintage because of two things: the repeat is even, and the V points are sharp. Uneven spacing and rounded points are what make a handmade scallop look homemade in the wrong way.
What You Need to Sew One
You need the garment or project with its hem still unsewn, a piece of matching fabric for the facing, and a lightweight fusible interfacing. For tools, gather a round object about the size of the scallop you want, tailor’s chalk or a water erasable pen, a clear ruler, pins, fine small scissors and a point turner or blunt knitting needle.
Choose the fabric before you choose the scallop size. Light to medium weight wovens behave best: cotton lawn, poplin, quilting cotton, chambray, linen, batiste and broadcloth all turn and press crisply. Heavy denim, coating and thick upholstery cloth give bulky curves that will not hold a sharp V, and slippery satins show every wobble in the stitching line.
A round lid, a cup, a saucer or a tin is enough for the template. Anything round will do as long as its curve is the shape you want to see repeated along the hem.
Step 1: Cut and Interface the Facing
Cut the facing as a strip on the same grain as the hem. Its depth is the scallop depth plus the seam allowance plus about an inch, which leaves room for the stitching line and for the facing to sit flat inside the garment afterwards.
Fuse a lightweight interfacing to the wrong side of the facing strip with a dry iron, lifting and replacing the iron rather than sliding it. Let the strip cool flat before it is handled, because a warm fused piece moves and the curve you press into it will not survive.
Interfacing is what stops the V points from fraying into fluff during trimming. It also keeps the scallop outline crisp after the first wash, when an uninterfaced cotton facing softens and the curves begin to look like waves.
On very light fabrics, a tear away stabiliser under the seam allowance while stitching does a similar job without stiffening the finished hem, and it is pulled away before turning.
Step 2: Work Out the Scallop Count and Make a Template
Measure the finished hem edge, the line you want the V points to sit on. Divide that length by your preferred scallop width to get a rough count, then round the count to a whole number and, for a garment, round it to an even number so the centre front falls between two scallops rather than on a point. Divide the edge length by that rounded count and you have the exact width of each scallop.
Worked out on a skirt hem of 40 inches with a preferred scallop width of 3 inches, the rough count is 13.3. Rounding to 12 gives scallops of 3.33 inches, and a centre front that lands in a repeat instead of at a point. Adjusting the width slightly is always better than accepting one half scallop at a side seam.
Draw the template on card: two parallel lines the depth of the scallop apart, half circles marked between them, and a straight edge at each end so the template butts up against the next repeat. Cut it out and test it around a curve as well as along a straight edge, because a hem on a flared skirt needs the repeats to fan rather than sit parallel.
If the hem curves, the scallops should follow the curve rather than the grain. Mark a few repeats on the actual fabric, step back, and look at the spacing before committing to the whole edge.
| Hem edge | Scallop width chosen | Count and correction |
|---|---|---|
| 40 inches | 3 inches | 13.3, round to 12, so 3.33 inches each |
| 36 inches | 4 inches | 9, round to 8, so 4.5 inches each |
| 60 inches, tablecloth | 3 inches | 20, already even, so 3 inches each |
Step 3: Mark the Scallops and Baste the Facing
Mark on the wrong side of the facing, starting at a centre point and working outwards to each side. If the repeat does not divide perfectly, the small correction belongs at the side seams, where a slightly narrower last scallop is invisible.
Place the facing on the garment right sides together so the marked edge sits exactly on the hem line, and pin every few inches. Pins on the curve itself distort the line, so pin in the flat between the scallops instead.
Baste the facing in place by hand or with a long machine stitch before any shaping stitch goes in. The basting is what keeps the two layers from creeping while the fabric is pivoted, and creep is the reason the first two scallops can look right while the last three drift.
Mark the V points a little more heavily than the curves. Those points are where the stitching has to stop and turn, and they are the marks your eye will follow while the needle is down.
Step 4: Stitch the Curves With the Needle Down at Every V
Set a short stitch length of about 1.8 to 2 mm. Short stitches follow a curve more smoothly and give a cleaner point than long ones, which cut the corner and leave a faceted scallop.
Sew the flat between two scallops, then slow down as the curve begins. When the needle reaches the V point, stop with the needle down in the fabric, lift the presser foot, pivot the fabric until the next curve is under the needle, lower the foot and continue. Turning with the needle down is the single habit that produces a sharp point rather than a rounded one.
Do not backstitch at the start and end of the seam. Overlap the stitching by a few stitches instead, or leave long thread tails to tie off, because a backstitched V is thick, and thickness at the point is what shows through the fabric on the right side.
Keep the seam allowance even by watching the distance between the fabric edge and the needle, not the marked line. If the allowance drifts, the scallops drift with it.
Step 5: Trim, Clip and Grade the Seam Allowance
Trim the seam allowance to about a quarter inch all round. Pinking shears are quick for the flat sections, but they are clumsy at the points, so switch to small sharp scissors before reaching every V.
Clip the V points almost to the stitching line, stopping a thread or two short. That clip is what allows the point to open when the hem is turned; without it the point stays folded over and the scallop reads as a blob.
Notch or grade the allowance on the dome of each scallop if the fabric is bulky. A scallop’s dome is a convex curve from the outside and a concave seam allowance from the inside, so short snips along the allowance help it settle flat. On interfaced facings, grade the interfaced layer slightly narrower than the garment layer so the seam rolls to the inside.
Do this trimming at a clear table with good light, one scallop at a time. Rushing through the whole hem and then finding one point has been cut into means reopening a seam that was already correct.
Step 6: Turn, Press and Secure the Facing
Turn the hem to the right side through the opening, easing each scallop out with a point turner rather than a sharp tool. Work the curve gently from the seam side, because poking at the point from the outside stretches the fabric and rounds it. Then understitch the facing: sew the facing allowance to the facing only, a scant 1/8 inch from the seam, right along the hem. That one line is what stops the facing rolling out to the right side.
Press with the hem wrong side up first, using the nose of the iron to get into the flats between the scallops. Then press from the right side over a rolled towel or a pressing ham so each curve keeps its rounded shape, and weight each section until it is cool rather than sliding the iron along the seam. Let the garment hang for an hour before checking the line, because a bias hem on a circle skirt will drop and the scallops will follow it down.
Secure the top edge of the facing to the inside of the garment with a line of tiny pick stitches or a machine stitch in the ditch of a nearby seam. How to hide that closing seam is the same problem solved in the guide to the burrito method for armholes, where an enclosed seam is finished from the inside out.
Understitching is the difference between a scallop that lies flat and one that curls open in the wardrobe. It takes one extra line of stitching and no extra skill.
Other Ways to Make a Scalloped Edge
The faced method above is the most controllable and the one that survives washing. There are three other routes worth knowing, and each suits a different project.
A folded self facing works on light fabric when there is enough hem depth to fold twice. Press a half inch to an inch to the inside, fold again by the scallop depth, draw the scallops on the fold and stitch through both layers. It is quick and needs no separate strip, but it will not work on a hem that is already narrow.
A machine stitched scallop uses a decorative satin stitch scallop or a narrow zigzag over stabiliser close to the edge, then trims the fabric away outside the stitching. It is beautiful on crisp linen and on lingerie, it can be stitched in a contrast thread, and it needs a steady hand and a sharp pair of scissors at the trimming stage. The stitched edge is decorative rather than enclosed, so the reverse side shows the stitching.
Ready made scalloped lace or an embroidered scallop border is the fourth route and the fastest. It is also the one to choose when the fabric is sheer, because a faced hem on chiffon adds weight exactly where the cloth cannot carry it.
| Method | What it needs | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| Faced scallop | Facing strip, interfacing, pivot stitching | Skirts, dresses, anything washed often |
| Folded self facing | Deep hem allowance, no extra fabric | Light cotton, children’s clothes |
| Stitched scallop | Stabiliser, decorative stitch, sharp scissors | Linen, lingerie, contrast thread |
Why Scallops Go Wrong
| Fault | Cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Points are round, not sharp | Pivot made with the needle up | Stitch again with the needle down, clip the point closer |
| Scallops are uneven in width | Count not divided into the hem evenly | Recount and re-mark from the centre outwards |
| Facing rolls to the outside | No understitching before turning | Understitch the allowance to the facing, then re-press |
| Curves look flat and lifeless | Pressed on a flat board | Press over a ham or rolled towel, weight until cool |
| V points fray after washing | Interfacing omitted, points trimmed too close | Interface the facing and leave a thread or two short |
| Hem waves along the edge | Facing cut on a different grain | Recut the facing on the same grain as the hem |
Frequently Asked Questions
What is a scalloped hem?
A scalloped hem is a hem finished as a row of soft half circles instead of a straight line. A facing is stitched along the marked curves, trimmed and turned so the seam allowance forms the outline of each scallop.
Do I need a special foot to sew a scalloped hem?
No. A standard presser foot works, because the shapes are stitched on a marked line with the needle down at each point. An open toe foot makes the line easier to see but is not required.
How do I work out how many scallops fit my hem?
Measure the finished hem, divide by the scallop width you want, round the answer to a whole number, then divide the hem by that number to get the exact width. Round to an even number on garments.
What is the best fabric for a scalloped hem?
Light to medium weight wovens that press crisply, such as cotton lawn, poplin, quilting cotton, linen, batiste and broadcloth. Heavy fabrics give bulky curves and slippery fabrics show every stitching wobble.
How deep should a scallop be?
For a first attempt, half the width of the scallop or less. Shallow curves turn and press cleanly, while deep curves hold too much bulk in the point and will not lie flat after turning.
Why do my scallop points look rounded?
Usually because the fabric was pivoted with the needle up, or the point was not clipped close enough. Pivot with the needle down, trim the allowance to about an eighth inch at the point and clip to a thread short of the stitching.
Should I interface the facing of a scalloped hem?
Yes on most cotton and linen. Lightweight fusible keeps the points from fraying during trimming and holds the curve after washing. On very sheer fabric, use a tear away stabiliser while stitching instead.
How do I stop the facing showing on the outside?
Understitch the seam allowance to the facing before turning, about an eighth inch from the seam. Understitching pulls the facing to the inside and holds the scallop edge crisp without topstitching.
Can I sew a scalloped hem on a circle skirt?
Yes, but let the hem hang for at least a day before marking. A bias hem drops, and scallops marked before the drop will sit unevenly once the skirt has settled.
Do scalloped hems work on stretch fabric?
They are difficult on knits because the edge curls and the points stretch out of shape. If the fabric has stretch, stabilise the hem first or use a machine stitched scallop with a tear away backing.
Conclusion
A scalloped hem is a maths problem disguised as a decorative finish. Divide the hem into an even number of repeats, make a card template and mark from the centre outwards, and every curve after that is repetition rather than guesswork.
The three habits that carry the method are stitching with the needle down at every V, understitching before the facing is turned, and pressing each curve over something round. Each takes moments and each removes a fault that would otherwise need the seam unpicked.
Sew two scallops on a scrap first and keep the sample labelled, and read the guide to sewing machine thread breaking if the thread snaps mid-hem.
What will you put scallops on first, a skirt hem, a sleeve or a set of napkins?
About This Guide
Mithu has been sewing and teaching garment construction for 15 years, and every method in this guide has been sewn in the craftsing studio before it was written down. The facing depth rule, the stitch length and the trimming figures follow the published tutorials named below, and the fault table comes from the studio’s own scallop samples in lawn, poplin and linen. No figure in this guide is an estimate dressed up as a measurement.
Sources used: blog.treasurie.com and sewguide.com for the template and scallop count maths, seamwork.com and welikesewing.com for the stitched and folded variants, mellysews.com for the three decorative methods, and the published craftsing tutorials linked above for the enclosed seam finish and for thread problems.
All images in this article were created using AI.