Do you love comfy hoodies? Who doesn’t! They’re like a warm hug you can wear. But what if you could make your very own, exactly how you like it, with a cool zipper down the front? Guess what? You totally can! This guide will show you how to make a zip up hoodie, even if you’re pretty new to sewing. We’re going to take a regular sweatshirt pattern and do a little “hack” – that’s like a clever trick – to turn it into an awesome zip-up version. It sounds tricky, but I promise, with a few simple steps, you’ll be zipping up your new favorite hoodie in no time!
Why Bother Making Your Own Zip-Up Hoodie?
You might be thinking, “Why make one when I can just buy one?” Well, making your own clothes is super rewarding! When you learn how to make a zip up hoodie, you get to:
- Pick Your Perfect Fabric: Want it super soft and fleecy? Or maybe a cool, lighter material? You choose!
- Get the Best Fit: No more too-long sleeves or too-tight hoods. You can make it fit you just right.
- Show Off Your Style: Add cool pockets, pick your favorite zipper color, and make something truly one-of-a-kind.
- Feel Super Proud: There’s nothing like saying, “Thanks, I made it myself!”
Plus, learning how to sew a zipper hoodie is a great skill that opens up doors to making all sorts of cool clothes.
What You’ll Need to Get Started
Before we dive into how to make a zip up hoodie, let’s gather our tools. You’ll need your basic sweatshirt pattern (we’re hacking this, remember!). Then, grab these things:
| Item | Why You Need It | Quick Tip |
|---|---|---|
| Sweatshirt Pattern | The starting point for our hoodie. | Use one you’ve made before or a simple beginner-friendly one. |
| Fabric | For the main hoodie and hood lining (if you want one). | Fleece, French terry, or sweatshirt knits work great. |
| Zipper | The star of our zip-up! | Make sure it’s the right length for your hoodie front. Separating zippers are best. |
| Sewing Machine | To do most of the stitching. | A basic machine with a straight stitch and zigzag is fine. |
| Thread | To hold it all together! | All-purpose polyester thread that matches your fabric is a good choice. |
| Fabric Shears | Sharp scissors just for cutting fabric. | Don’t use them on paper! |
| Pins | To hold fabric pieces together before sewing. | Glass-headed pins are good because you can iron near them. |
| Fabric Marker/Chalk | To draw lines on your fabric that will disappear. | Always test on a scrap piece first! |
| Iron & Ironing Board | For pressing seams flat. | This makes your hoodie look so much neater! |
| Zipper Foot | A special sewing machine foot for sewing zippers. | This is a HUGE help! |
These are the main things. You’ll also want things like a tape measure and a seam ripper (just in case!).
Step 1: Changing Your Pattern for a Zipper
This is where the magic “hack” happens to help us make a zip up hoodie. We need to change the front pattern piece and the pocket piece a little.
Usually, for a pullover hoodie, you cut the front piece on the fold of the fabric. But for a zip-up, we need two separate front pieces. So, take your sweatshirt front pattern piece. We need to add a bit of extra fabric where the zipper will go. This is called a seam allowance. Add about half an inch (or 1.5 cm) seam allowance to the center front edge.
You’ll do the same thing for the pocket piece if your pattern has a big single pocket that usually goes on the fold. Add that half-inch seam allowance to the edge that would have been on the fold.
Now, when you cut your fabric for the front of the hoodie, instead of cutting one piece on the fold, you’ll cut two separate pieces (mirror images of each other). You’ll also cut two separate pocket pieces if you changed that pattern piece. Just fold your fabric in half, place the pattern piece on top (not on the fold line this time), and cut. You’ll get two pieces that are mirror images – perfect for the left and right sides of your DIY zip hoodie.
Step 2: Sewing Your Hoodie (Before the Zipper)
Okay, pattern pieces are cut! Now, you’re going to sew most of your hoodie together, just like you would for a regular pullover, but with a few small changes.
- If you have two pocket pieces, sew them onto each front hoodie piece.
- Sew the shoulder seams.
- Attach the sleeves and sew the side seams and sleeve seams.
- For the hem band (the stretchy band at the bottom), instead of sewing it into a loop first, you’ll attach it flat. Line up the raw edges of the hem band with the bottom raw edges of your open hoodie front and back. Stitch it on.
If you need a reminder on how to do these steps, you can look at the instructions for your original sweatshirt pattern. We’re just leaving the front open for now because that’s where our awesome zipper will go! This is a key part of learning how to make a zip up hoodie.
Step 3: It’s Zipper Time! Installing Your Zipper
This might seem like the hardest part of how to make a zip up hoodie, but we’ll take it step by step. Don’t rush, and you’ll do great!
Check Your Zipper Length
First, lay your hoodie front flat. Take your zipper and place it along one of the front edges. The bottom stop of the zipper (the little metal bit at the bottom) should line up with the bottom edge of your hem band. At the top, you want about half an inch of zipper tape above the zipper pull when it’s zipped all the way up. This space is important for attaching the hood later.
If your zipper is too long, you’ll need to shorten it. There are ways to do this by carefully removing some teeth and adding new stops. You can find videos online showing how to do this for different zipper types (like plastic or metal). If your zipper is the right length, hooray!
Pin and Baste One Side
Let’s start with one side of the hoodie front. Place the zipper tape face down onto the right side of your fabric, along the center front edge. The zipper teeth should be pointing away from the raw edge of the fabric. Pin it carefully in place.
Now, switch to a zipper foot on your sewing machine. This foot lets you sew really close to the zipper teeth. We’re going to “baste” the zipper first. Basting just means using a long stitch that’s easy to take out later. Sew one side of the zipper tape to the hoodie front.
Mark for Perfect Matching
Why did we baste? So we can do this super smart trick! Zip the zipper closed carefully. Now, with your fabric marker or chalk, make little marks on the unsewn side of the zipper tape that line up with important spots on your hoodie – like the top of the pocket and the seam where the hem band meets the hoodie. These marks will help you make sure everything lines up perfectly on the other side. This is a pro tip for sewing a zipper hoodie neatly.
Pin and Baste the Other Side
Unzip the zipper. Now, take the other side of the hoodie front. Place the remaining zipper tape face down on the right side of this fabric edge, just like before. This time, use those marks you made to line up the zipper tape with the pocket and hem band seam. Pin it carefully. Then, baste this side of the zipper too.
Double-Check Your Work!
Now for the moment of truth! Carefully zip up your hoodie. Look closely. Do your pockets line up? Does your hem band seam match on both sides? If it looks good, great! If something is a bit off, it’s much easier to fix now while it’s just basted. Just use your seam ripper to take out the basting stitches and try again. Taking this extra time is worth it for a professional-looking custom hoodie sewing project.
Sew the Zipper for Real
Once you’re happy with how it’s lined up, it’s time to sew the zipper permanently. Still using your zipper foot, sew close to the zipper teeth on both sides. Use a regular stitch length this time. When you get near the zipper pull, stop with your needle down in the fabric, lift your presser foot, and carefully slide the zipper pull out of the way. Then lower your presser foot and keep sewing.
Topstitch for a Neat Finish
This step makes your zipper look really good from the outside. Turn the zipper tape and the seam allowance to the inside of the hoodie. Press it flat with your iron. Now, from the right side of the hoodie, stitch close to the edge where the fabric meets the zipper. This is called topstitching. It keeps everything neat and stops the fabric from getting caught in the zipper. Do this on both sides of the zipper. You’re getting so good at how to make a zip up hoodie!
Step 4: Adding the Hood
Your hoodie is almost done! The last big step is adding the hood.
First, take your two hood pieces. If your pattern has you sew a center seam in the hood, do that now. Then, many hood patterns have a casing (a little tunnel) at the front edge for a drawstring. You can baste a line where you’ll fold this casing back.
Now, find the center back of your hoodie neckline and the center back of your hood. Match these points, with the right sides of the fabric together. Pin the hood to the neckline. The front edges of your hood should line up with the front edges of your hoodie, right where the zipper is. Your hood edge will likely have a seam allowance that folds over the top of the zipper tape. Pin the rest of the hood to the neckline.
Sew the hood to the neckline. You can use a serger if you have one, or a stretch stitch on your regular sewing machine (like a narrow zigzag or a lightning bolt stitch). This seam needs to stretch a bit.
Finish the Hood Casing
Now, take that front edge of the hood that you basted earlier. Fold it back along your basting line to create the casing. The raw edge will be tucked inside. Make sure to neatly fold in the seam allowance at the very front where it meets the zipper, wrapping it around the top of the zipper tape for a clean finish. Pin the casing in place.
Stitch the casing down, sewing close to the folded inner edge. Again, use a stitch that can stretch. Remember to check your bobbin thread color if you’re stitching from the outside, as that’s what will show on the inside.
Ta-Da! Your Amazing New Zip-Up Hoodie!
And just like that, you’ve learned how to make a zip up hoodie! Trim any extra threads. Step back and admire your work. See how your pockets match up, your hem band is even, and you have a beautifully finished hood? It really is a simple hack once you break it down. Zip it up and try it on – you made that!
Quick Tips for Your Hoodie Success
- Take Your Time: Especially when you’re installing the zipper. Don’t rush!
- Press As You Go: Ironing your seams flat as you sew makes a huge difference in how neat your finished hoodie looks.
- Use That Zipper Foot: It really does make sewing zippers much easier.
- Test Stitches: If you’re trying a new stretch stitch, test it on a scrap piece of your fabric first.
FAQs: Your Zip-Up Hoodie Questions Answered!
How do you put a zipper on a hoodie?
You add a zipper to a hoodie by changing the front pattern. Cut two front pieces instead of one. Then, you sew the zipper tape to each front edge. A special zipper foot on your machine helps. You pin it carefully. Then you sew it slowly.
How to make a zip up?
To make a zip-up, you need a pattern for a top. You change the front to be open. You add extra fabric for the zipper. Then you sew in a zipper. This guide shows you how for a hoodie!
What is a hoodie with a zipper called?
A hoodie with a zipper is usually called a zip-up hoodie. Sometimes people just say “zip hoodie.” Or they might call it a zippered sweatshirt. It means it opens all the way down the front.
How to style a zip hoodie?
Zip hoodies are easy to style! You can wear them open over a t-shirt. This shows off your shirt. You can zip them up when it’s cold. They look great with jeans or joggers. You can wear them for sports or just hanging out.
How do you use a double zipper hoodie?
A double zipper hoodie has two zipper pulls. You can unzip it from the bottom. You can also unzip it from the top. This is nice if you want more room at the bottom. Maybe you are sitting down. Or you want to show a belt. You just slide the pulls where you want them.
You Did It! What’s Next?
Learning how to make a zip up hoodie is a fantastic sewing adventure. You’ve taken a basic pattern and turned it into something new and exciting. Now that you’ve mastered this, think of all the other cool things you can make!
I’d love to see your finished hoodies or hear about your sewing journey! Did you try this pattern hack? Do you have any questions? Share your thoughts in the comments below! Happy sewing!
