Hey there, fashion fans and crafty creators! Do you love the fun, swishy style of bell bottom pants? They’re back in a big way, and guess what? You don’t have to search high and low for the perfect pair. You can make them yourself! Learning how to make bell bottom pants pattern might sound tricky, but it’s easier than you think. With a few simple steps, you can draft a pattern that fits you just right and lets you create amazing DIY bell bottoms. Let’s get started on this fun sewing adventure!
Why Bother Making Your Own Pants Pattern?
You might ask, “Why should I learn how to make bell bottom pants pattern when I can buy one?” That’s a great question! When you make your own pattern, you get a custom fit pants. Store-bought patterns are made for an average size, but we all have unique shapes. Drafting your own means your bell bottoms will hug you in all the right places and be super comfy. Plus, it’s a really cool skill to have in your pattern making for beginners toolkit!
What You’ll Need to Get Started
Before we dive into making your flare pants pattern, let’s gather a few simple tools. Most of these you might already have if you enjoy sewing.
| Tool | Why You Need It |
|---|---|
| Pattern Paper | Large sheets to draw your pattern on. |
| Measuring Tape | To take your body measurements. |
| Pencils & Eraser | For drawing and making changes. |
| Ruler (long & clear) | To draw straight lines. A hip curve ruler is nice too! |
| Scissors (for paper) | For cutting out your pattern pieces. |
| Basic Trouser Pattern | (Optional, but helpful for beginners) A starting point. |
| Your Body Measurements | Most important! We’ll talk about these next. |
Having these items ready will make the process of learning how to make bell bottom pants pattern much smoother.
Starting with a Basic Trouser Pattern (Optional, but Handy!)
If you’re new to trouser pattern drafting, using a basic trouser (or pants) pattern that already fits you well can be a great shortcut. You can find these online or in pattern books. This basic pattern will give you a good starting point for your waist, hips, and crotch curve. You’ll then change it to add the bell bottom flare.
If you don’t have a basic pattern, don’t worry! You can still draft from scratch using your measurements. It just takes a few extra steps, which we’ll cover. The key is understanding your measurements for that easy pants pattern.
Knowing Your Numbers: Key Measurements for Bell Bottoms
Getting accurate measurements is super important for a good fit. Ask a friend to help you, or do your best with a mirror. Here are the main ones you’ll need:
| Measurement | How to Take It |
|---|---|
| Waist | Measure around your natural waistline (the narrowest part of your torso). |
| Hip | Measure around the fullest part of your hips and bottom. |
| Thigh | Measure around the fullest part of one thigh. |
| Knee Circumference | Measure around your knee where you want the bell to start flaring from. |
| Trouser Length | Measure from your waist down to where you want the pants to end (consider shoes!). |
| Desired Flare | Decide how wide you want the bottom of the bell to be (e.g., 20 inches, 24 inches). |
Write these numbers down! They are the secret code to unlocking your perfect how to make bell bottom pants pattern.
Step-by-Step: Drafting Your Bell Bottom Pants Pattern (The Front Piece)
Alright, let’s get to the fun part – drawing your pattern! We’ll start with the front piece.
1. Basic Lines First
On your pattern paper, draw a long vertical line. This is your grainline and center front. If you’re using a basic trouser pattern, trace the waist, hip, crotch, and thigh area of your front piece onto the pattern paper. If starting from scratch, you’ll draft these using your measurements. Many beginner trouser pattern drafting guides can show you this foundational step.
2. Mark Your Knee Line
Measure down from your waist along the center line to your knee point. Draw a horizontal line here. This is your knee line. On your basic pattern, you might already have a knee line marked.
3. Where Will the Flare Begin?
Now, a little style choice! Do you want the flare to start right at your knee? Or a bit lower down?
- Flare from the knee: Your bell will be quite full.
- Flare from below the knee: Some people, especially if they are shorter, like to come down a few inches (say, 2-5 inches) below the actual knee line before starting the flare. This can make your legs look longer. Decide where your flare will start and mark this new “flare start line” if it’s different from your knee line. For simplicity in these instructions, we’ll refer to this as the modified knee line.
4. Shape the Top
From your waist mark, shape the line down to your hip mark, then to your thigh mark, and then taper it in slightly towards your modified knee line mark. If you traced a basic pattern, these lines are mostly done for you. You are aiming for a snug fit down to where the flare begins. For your easy pants pattern, you want the top part to fit well.
5. Add the Famous Flare!
This is where the magic of how to make bell bottom pants pattern happens!
- At your modified knee line, decide how wide you want the leg to be. Let’s say your half knee measurement (half of your total knee circumference) is 7 inches. Mark 3.5 inches on either side of your center line.
- Now, go down to your hem line (the bottom of your pants). Decide on your total desired flare width. Let’s say you want a 24-inch flare. For the front pattern piece (which is half the front), you’ll use half of that, so 12 inches. Mark 6 inches on either side of your center line at the hem.
- Using your long ruler, draw straight lines connecting the marks at your modified knee line to the marks at your hem line on both sides. Wow! You’ve got a bell shape!
6. Fine-Tune the Waist (Optional)
Sometimes, the waistline needs a little shaping to sit better. You might curve the center front waist down slightly (about 1/4 to 1/2 inch) and raise the side seam waist point a tiny bit. This helps the pants sit smoothly.
7. Add Waistband and Hem Allowances
Don’t forget these!
- Waistband: If you’re adding a separate waistband, you might not need to add height here. If you’re doing a fold-over elastic casing, add how much you need (e.g., 1.5 inches) above your waistline.
- Hem: Add your desired hem allowance to the bottom of the bell. 1 inch is common for a simple turned hem.
You’ve now got the basic shape for your front flare pants pattern!
Step-by-Step: Drafting Your Bell Bottom Pants Pattern (The Back Piece)
The back piece is similar to the front but needs a bit more room, especially around the seat.
1. Start with the Front (Partially)
The easiest way to start the back piece is to trace parts of your finished front pattern. Place a new sheet of pattern paper down. Lay your front pattern piece on top. Trace from the thigh line upwards (the thigh, crotch, hip, and waist).
2. The “Slash and Spread” for a Better Fit (Optional Advanced Step)
For a really good fit in the seat, especially if you have a curvier figure, pattern makers often use a “slash and spread” method. This involves:
- Finding the midpoint between your waistline and hip line on the traced back piece. Draw a horizontal line.
- Cut along this line from the center back towards the side seam, but not all the way through – leave a little paper hinge at the side seam.
- Spread this slash open a bit (maybe 1 to 1.5 inches, depending on how much room you need). This adds extra fabric and curve for your bottom. Tape paper underneath to fill the gap. Then, re-smooth the center back line and side seam line.
This is a common technique in trouser pattern drafting for a better back fit. If this feels too complex for your first easy pants pattern, you can skip it and make adjustments later when you sew a test version.
3. Adjust the Back Crotch
The back crotch curve needs to be longer and deeper than the front.
- Extend the back crotch point outwards (away from the center) by about 1 to 2 inches from where the front crotch point was.
- Also, drop the back crotch point down a little (maybe 1/2 inch) lower than the front.
- Redraw the back crotch curve smoothly. It should be a gentler, longer curve than the front.
4. Flare the Back Leg
Just like you did for the front:
- Mark your modified knee line width (same as the front).
- Mark your hem line width (same as the front).
- Connect these points from the knee to the hem to create the bell shape for the back leg. The inseam (inner leg) and outseam (outer leg) lines should match the length of the front pattern’s inseam and outseam.
5. Add Waistband and Hem Allowances
Add the same waistband and hem allowances to the back piece as you did for the front.
And there you have it – your back bell bottom pants pattern piece!
Tips for Bell Bottom Success
You’re so close to being able to sew bell bottom pants! Here are a few last tips:
- Fabric Choice Matters: If your pattern was drafted for stretchy fabric (like jersey or knits), you might have included less “ease” (extra room). If you use a non-stretchy fabric (like denim or corduroy) with that same pattern, it might be too tight. For non-stretchy fabrics, you generally need to add a bit more room (ease) in the pattern, especially at the waist and hips, and consider adding seam allowances if your pattern didn’t include them.
- Seam Allowances: Remember to add seam allowances to all edges (sides, inseam, crotch, waist if not included in waistband allowance) if your drafting method didn’t include them. 1/2 inch or 5/8 inch are common.
- Make a Muslin (Test Garment): Before cutting into your precious fashion fabric, it’s a super smart idea to sew a test version (called a muslin or a toile) from cheap fabric. This lets you check the fit and make any changes to your pattern. This is a key step for any custom fit pants.
- Label Your Pieces: Write “Front,” “Back,” grainline, your name, and the date on your pattern pieces. It helps keep things organized!
FAQs
How to make easy bell-bottoms?
You can make bell bottoms more easily. Start with a simple pants pattern. Or, use a pair of leggings that fit you well as a guide for the top part. Then, from the knee down, you will add the wide “bell” shape. Decide how wide you want the bottom. Draw lines from the knee out to that width at the hem.
How to style your bell-bottoms?
Bell bottoms are fun to style! You can wear them with a fitted top. This shows off the flare of the pants. A tucked-in shirt also looks great. For shoes, platform shoes or boots look really cool. You can also wear them with simple sneakers for a casual look.
How to design flared pants?
Designing flared pants starts with a basic pants shape. First, decide how high you want the waist. Then, think about the fit around your hips and thighs. Next, choose where the flare will start. It can start right at your knee. Or it can start a little lower down your leg. Then, decide how wide you want the bottom flare to be. Draw these lines on your pattern paper.
How to sew a pants pattern together?
Sewing a pants pattern has a few main steps. First, you usually sew the inner leg seams (inseams) of each leg piece. Then, you sew the outer leg seams (outseams). After that, you sew the front crotch seam together. You also sew the back crotch seam. Then you join the front and back pieces at the crotch. Finally, you add a waistband and hem the bottom. Always read your pattern instructions carefully.
How to make a bell step by step?
To make the bell shape on your pattern, first find your knee line. Mark how wide you want the pants at the knee on each side of a center line. Then, go to the bottom of your pattern (the hem line). Mark how wide you want the bell opening on each side of the center line. Now, draw straight lines. Connect the knee marks to the hem marks on both sides. That creates the bell shape!
Get Ready to Flare!
Wow, you did it! You’ve learned the basics of how to make bell bottom pants pattern. It might take a little practice, but once you get the hang of it, you can create all sorts of amazing DIY bell bottoms. Imagine all the cool fabrics and styles you can make! Taking the time for good pattern making for beginners sets you up for sewing success.
Now that you have your pattern, are you excited to start sewing? What fabric will you choose for your first pair of custom bell bottoms? Let us know in the comments below – we’d love to hear about your creative plans!