Have you ever wondered how designers create those beautiful, bouncy, wavy hems on dresses and skirts? The kind that seems to float and dance with every step you take? It looks like a complicated trick from a high-fashion studio, but it’s not.
The secret is a simple, amazing material called horsehair braid. And the best part? You can easily learn how to sew a horsehair hem at home.
Don’t worry, it has nothing to do with actual horses! It’s a type of stiff netting that adds body, structure, and that gorgeous ripple effect to your garments. If you want to take your sewing projects from homemade to designer-made, this is the technique you need to learn.
Let’s walk through it together. I’ll show you just how simple it is to add this professional touch to your next skirt or dress.
What is Horsehair Braid, Anyway?
Horsehair braid, also called crinoline, is a stiff, mesh-like ribbon. It comes in different widths, usually from half an inch to several inches wide. Its job is to give the bottom edge of a garment shape and weight.
When you sew it into a hem, the stiffness of the braid pushes against the fabric. This creates soft, structural waves and adds a wonderful sense of movement. It’s the perfect way to add volume to a circle skirt or give a formal gown that fairytale flair. It’s a small detail that makes a huge difference.
Gathering Your Simple Supplies
You don’t need a lot of fancy tools for this technique. Before we get started on how to sew a horsehair hem, let’s gather a few basic supplies.
| Supply | Why You Need It |
|---|---|
| Horsehair Braid | The star of the show! A 1-inch or 2-inch width is great for most projects. |
| Matching Thread | Choose a thread that matches the color of your garment. |
| Scissors | A sharp pair of fabric scissors for clean cuts. |
| Bias Tape | Just a few inches from your scrap bin to finish the ends of the braid. |
| Your Garment | A circle skirt, a flowy dress, or any project needing extra body at the hem. |
Your Step-by-Step Guide to Sewing a Horsehair Hem
Ready to transform your garment? We’ll break this down into five easy steps. Just follow along, and you’ll have a stunning hem in no time.
Step 1: Finish the End of the Horsehair
The raw, cut edge of horsehair braid can be very prickly and scratchy. If it rubs against your skin, it will be uncomfortable. Our first step is to cover that edge with a small piece of bias tape to make it soft.
First, take a small piece of bias tape and unfold it. Place the raw edge of the horsehair braid along the raw edge of the tape. Sew it down right in the first crease of the bias tape.
Next, fold the bias tape back over the horsehair, covering the end completely. It will look like a little cap. Stitch along the sides and the other edge of the tape to secure it. This creates a soft, fabric-covered end that won’t poke or scratch.
Step 2: Attach the Braid to Your Hem
Now it’s time to attach the horsehair to your skirt or dress. This might feel backward, but we are going to start by sewing it to the outside of the garment.
Lay the horsehair braid along the raw bottom edge of your fabric, on the right side. The edge of the braid should line up perfectly with the raw edge of your hem. You can pin it in place if you like, but I find it easier to just line it up as I sew.
Using a quarter-inch seam allowance, stitch the horsehair braid all the way around the hem. Take your time to keep the edges aligned.
Step 3: Finish and Overlap the Ends
Sew all the way around the hem, but stop about four inches before you get back to where you started. Backstitch and cut your thread.
Now, lay the remaining horsehair over your starting point. You want the ends to overlap by about half an inch. Cut the horsehair braid.
Just like you did in Step 1, you need to finish this second raw end with another small piece of bias tape. Once it’s covered, you can finish sewing that last four-inch section. Simply lay the newly finished end on top of the starting end and stitch them both down.
Step 4: The All-Important Edge Stitch
This next stitch is key to getting a crisp, clean finish. Flip the horsehair braid up, away from the garment. You will see the seam allowance underneath (the little flap of fabric you created in Step 2).
We are going to sew that seam allowance down onto the horsehair braid. This is called an “edge stitch” or “understitch.” Sew very close to the first seam line.
This simple stitch locks the seam in place and ensures that when you turn the hem to the inside, it creates a sharp, professional-looking fold instead of a puffy, bubbly one.
Step 5: Turn and Topstitch for the Final Finish
You’re at the final step! Now, simply turn the entire horsehair braid to the inside of the garment. The braid will now be hidden on the wrong side of the fabric. The crisp edge you created in the last step should make it fold over very neatly.
Give it a gentle press with your iron to set the fold.
Finally, stitch along the top edge of the horsehair braid to secure it in place. You have two great options for this final stitch:
- A Straight Stitch: This is the easiest option. It will create a visible line of stitching on the outside of your garment, which is a nice look for many styles.
- A Blind Hem Stitch: If you are using a solid fabric and don’t want any stitches to show on the outside, you can use a blind hem stitch. This creates a nearly invisible finish.
Once that final stitch is done, you’re finished!
FAQs
How to hem with horsehair braid?
You first sew the braid to the outside of your hem. Then you turn it to the inside of the garment. A final stitch along the top edge holds it in place. This creates a beautiful, wavy hem.
How to stitch horsehair braid?
Use a simple straight stitch to attach the braid. Next, an edge stitch will make the hem look crisp. Your final stitch can be a straight stitch or a blind hem.
What is horsehair braid?
Horsehair braid is a special sewing supply. It is a stiff netting. It adds shape and volume to hems. This makes them look wavy and full.
What is another name for horsehair braid?
Horsehair braid is also called crinoline. You may see this name in craft stores. They are the same material.
How to braid hair neatly?
Horsehair braid for sewing is a material, not actual hair. It is used to give structure to fabric. This guide does not cover styling human hair.
You’re Ready for a Twirl!
Take a step back and look at what you’ve created! Your hem now has beautiful body, weight, and that signature wavy movement. By learning how to sew a horsehair hem, you’ve unlocked a technique that will make your sewing projects look more polished and professional than ever before.
It’s a simple process that delivers a huge impact. Now go ahead, put on your newly finished garment, and give it a good twirl. You’ve earned it!
What project are you going to try this on first? Share your ideas in the comments below—I would love to see what you’re creating