Have you ever been drawn to the timeless charm of a sailor-style collar? These beautiful wide collars aren’t just for sailors anymore! With the right pattern, you can add this timeless style to dresses, blouses, and tops. Today, I’m going to guide you through creating your own sailor collar pattern from the ground up. As an experienced tailor, I’ve made numerous sailor collars, and I’m thrilled to walk you through my straightforward approach.
What is a Sailor Collar?
A sailor collar is a wide, flat collar that extends across the shoulders and down the back. It was originally part of naval uniforms but has become a popular style in fashion. This non-convertible collar type creates a distinctive look that’s both classic and eye-catching.
Materials You’ll Need
Before we start drafting our sailor collar pattern, let’s gather everything we need:
- Front bodice pattern piece
- Back bodice pattern piece
- Pattern making paper
- Ruler or pattern master
- Pencil and colored pens (for marking different options)
- Tape or pattern weights
- Tracing wheel (optional)
Getting these tools prepared in advance will help keep things easy and enjoyable as you work.
Step 1: Position Your Pattern Pieces
Start by taking your front bodice pattern piece and placing it on your work surface. This will be the foundation for your sailor collar.
Next, position your back bodice pattern piece so that the shoulder at neck points meet perfectly. This point will act as a pivot point between the two pieces.
The charm of a sailor collar lies in the way all the pieces come together. When they’re properly aligned, you’ll start to see the collar shape take form.
Step 2: Create the Shoulder Overlap
Here’s where we start creating the distinctive roll in a sailor collar. You’ll need to overlap the shoulders of your pattern pieces by a specific amount.
The standard overlap is about half an inch (1.25 cm) for a regular-sized pattern. If you’re working with a half-scale block like I sometimes do, you’ll want to use half that amount.
The amount of overlap determines how much roll your collar will have. More overlap means your collar will sit higher up. A zero overlap would give you no roll at all, which isn’t what we want for a true sailor collar.
Once you’ve got the right amount of overlap, tape your pattern pieces in place or use weights to keep them from shifting around.
Step 3: Design Your Front Neckline
Now it’s time to lower the front neckline. This step is crucial because it determines how your collar will frame your face and chest.
You have several options for the neckline shape:
- A straight line down (which can be quite revealing)
- A gentle V-neck shape (most common for sailor collars)
- A curved line that follows your natural neckline
For most sailor collars, I recommend going with a V-neck that isn’t too deep. This creates the classic sailor look while still being comfortable and appropriate for most occasions.
Use your ruler to draw your chosen neckline, starting from the original front neckline and extending down to your preferred depth.
Step 4: Draft the Collar Shape
Place your pattern making paper under your positioned bodice pieces. Now trace around the following:
- The center back neckline
- Around the neck curve
- Down your newly created front neckline
- The center front line
It’s also helpful to mark the shoulder point and armhole as reference points.
After tracing, you can remove the original pattern pieces since we now have our basic collar outline.
Step 5: Shape the Back Edge
Decide how far down you want your sailor collar to extend on the back. Traditionally, sailor collars fall a few inches below the neckline.
Square across from your center back line at this point. The squared line should extend toward the armhole but stop slightly before reaching it.
This creates the distinctive square shape at the back of a sailor collar.
Step 6: Create the Outer Edge
The final shape of your collar depends on how you draw the outer edge. You have two main options:
- Draw a straight line from the back corner to the front point
- Create a gently curved line for a softer look
I prefer the curved option as it creates a more flattering collar that drapes beautifully. Use a curved ruler if you have one, or draw it freehand with a steady hand.
Make sure the curve is smooth and natural, especially where it meets the front neckline point.
Step 7: Refine the Neckline
Check the inner neckline where the shoulder points overlap. Sometimes this area can look jagged if there’s significant overlap.
Smooth out any rough spots with a gentle curve to ensure your collar will sit nicely against your neck.
Step 8: Create Top and Under Collar Pieces
A professional sailor collar has two layers: a top collar and an under collar.
The top collar should be slightly larger than the under collar. This size difference helps the seam roll slightly under when the collar is finished, hiding the stitching from view.
Trace your pattern onto fresh paper twice:
- Use the pattern just as it is for the upper collar
- For the under collar, reduce the outer edge slightly (about 1/8 inch)
Mark each piece clearly to avoid confusion when cutting your fabric.
Don’t Forget the Facings
The sailor collar isn’t complete without facing patterns. These are essential for a professional finish.
Your facings should follow the neckline and extend down about 2-3 inches. They’ll ensure your collar attaches neatly to your garment and that all raw edges are properly enclosed.
This table shows the key measurements for your sailor collar pattern:
| Pattern Element | Standard Measurement | Half-Scale Measurement |
|---|---|---|
| Shoulder Overlap | 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) | 1/4 inch (0.6 cm) |
| Back Extension | 6-8 inches (15-20 cm) | 3-4 inches (7.5-10 cm) |
| Front Neckline Drop | Varies by design | Varies by design |
| Facing Width | 2-3 inches (5-7.5 cm) | 1-1.5 inches (2.5-3.8 cm) |
Tips for Sailor Collar Success
Always test your pattern with inexpensive fabric first. This lets you make adjustments before cutting into your good fabric.
Remember that different fabrics will create different effects. Stiffer fabrics hold the classic sailor shape better, while softer fabrics create a more relaxed, draping look.
When sewing, press all seams carefully. Good pressing is the secret to a professional-looking collar.
FAQs
How to make a sailor collar without sewing?
You can use fabric glue. Cut your collar shape from fabric. Fold and press edges. Apply fabric glue along edges. Hold until dry. Add decorative elements with glue. Use safety pins if needed. This is temporary but works.
How do you sew a collar step by step?
Cut your collar pieces. Interface both pieces. Pin right sides together. Sew outer edges. Trim seams. Turn right side out. Press well. Pin to neckline. Match center points. Stitch in place. Press again.
How to attach a band collar?
Start with interfaced band pieces. Sew short ends together. Press seam open. Attach outer band to neckline. Press up. Fold inner band under. Pin in place. Topstitch carefully. Press final collar.
How do you make a homemade collar?
Choose your fabric. Make a paper pattern. Add seam allowance. Cut two pieces. Interface both. Sew outer edges. Turn right side out. Press well. Attach to garment. Can use buttons or ties.
How to make a boat neck pattern?
Start with basic bodice. Draw wide neckline. Curve slightly at shoulders. Keep front and back even. Add facing pieces. Cut on fold. Keep neckline shallow. Test fit first. Adjust as needed.
Ready to Set Sail!
Congratulations! You’ve now created your own custom sailor collar pattern. With this pattern in hand, you can add this classic design element to countless garments.
Remember that How To Sew a Wrap Jumpsuit: An Easy Step-By-Step DIY Guide”>pattern drafting takes practice, so don’t be discouraged if your first attempt isn’t perfect. Each time you draft and sew a sailor collar, you’ll improve your skills.
Ready to start sewing? Check out our companion guide on how to sew your sailor collar for step-by-step instructions on turning your pattern into a beautiful finished collar.
What will you add your new sailor collar to first? A summer dress? A classic blouse? This flexible design feature opens the door to countless creative options!