Have you ever admired the delicate look of stretch lace on lingerie but felt unsure about how to sew it yourself? You’re not alone. Sewing stretch lace for lingerie can seem tricky, but with the right techniques, you can create beautiful, professional-looking underwear right at home.
Why Stretch Lace Makes Lingerie Special
Stretch lace adds a touch of elegance to any underwear project. It feels soft against the skin and creates a pretty edge that elevates homemade lingerie from basic to boutique quality. The best part? Once you learn how to work with it, stretch lace is actually quite simple to apply.
The Secret Weapon: Water Soluble Stabilizer
Many sewers struggle when working with stretch lace because it’s thin and can get caught in your sewing machine. The good news is there’s a helpful tool that makes this process much easier: water soluble stabilizer.
Unlike tissue paper or toilet paper that you have to tear away, water soluble stabilizer simply washes away the first time you launder your garment. It’s often used for machine embroidery, but it’s also great for stretch lace projects!
What You’ll Need for This Project
Before you start attaching stretch lace to your lingerie piece, make sure you have these supplies ready:
| Supply | Purpose |
|---|---|
| Stretch lace elastic/trim | Creates the decorative edge for your underwear |
| Water soluble stabilizer | Helps feed the lace through your machine smoothly |
| Matching thread | For both top and bobbin (may need two colors) |
| Pins | For marking quarter points and securing lace |
| Scissors | For trimming lace and stabilizer |
| Sewing machine | Set to zigzag stitch |
| Pre-sewn underwear body | Following your pattern up to elastic application |
You can find stretch lace trim on Etsy by searching for “stretch lace trim” or “lace elastic.” Don’t worry about finding a specific brand – just look for lace that stretches well and feels soft.
Preparing Your Lace Bands
Start by making your lace into loops for both the waistband and leg openings. Here’s how:
Overlap the ends of your lace by about 1/4 inch. Place the lace on top of a piece of water soluble stabilizer. Using a narrow, short zigzag stitch, sew the ends together securely. Be careful not to twist the lace when forming loops, especially if the right and wrong sides look similar.
After sewing, trim the excess stabilizer close to the stitching line. Don’t worry about the bits of stabilizer still attached – they’ll wash away later.
Marking Quarter Points: The Key to Even Application
For a professional finish, you need to mark quarter points on both your lace and underwear. This ensures the lace stretches evenly all the way around.
For the lace loops, the seam serves as one marker point. Pin the opposite side to mark center front. Next, align the loop by bringing those two points together, then fold it to identify and mark the other quarter points.
On your underwear, match the side seams to find center front and center back. Then match these points to find the quarter points on each side. Mark all points with pins.
Attaching Lace to the Waistband
Now for the fun part! Position the lace so that its wrong side is facing the wrong side of the fabric. Match the quarter points you marked earlier. Ensure a tiny portion of the lace extends slightly above the fabric’s raw edge.
Adjust your machine to a zigzag stitch roughly 3mm in width and 2mm in length. Load the bobbin with thread that blends with the lace, and use thread matching the fabric for the top spool.
Starting at the back seam, sew all the way around the waistband. While stitching, gently stretch the lace so it lays smoothly against the fabric between the marked quarter points. This creates a snug, comfortable fit.
Once you’ve sewn all the way around, flip the lace toward the outside of the garment. This neatly tucks the raw fabric edge inside, creating a clean finish.
Creating Clean Leg Openings with Stretch Lace
For the leg openings, follow the same process as the waistband. The only difference is that you’ll need to stretch the lace a bit more around the curves of the leg openings to ensure a smooth fit.
Quarter the lace loops and the leg openings, match them together, and sew around using the same zigzag stitch. After attaching the lace, flip it outward to create that beautiful finished edge.
Finishing Touches for Professional Results
After attaching all your lace, check for any loose threads and trim them away. If your lace isn’t lying completely flat, you can gently press it with an iron. Important: use low heat and a pressing cloth since most stretch lace contains nylon which can melt under high heat.
Your first wash will remove all traces of the water soluble stabilizer, leaving you with perfectly finished edges.
Why This Method Works So Well
This technique creates underwear with:
- No visible raw edges inside or outside
- Comfortable stretch that moves with your body
- Professional-looking finishes similar to store-bought lingerie
- Decorative lace edges that peek out above the fabric
Frequently Asked Questions About Working with Stretch Lace
What is the best stitch for stretch lace?
The best stitch for stretch lace is a narrow zigzag stitch. Set your machine to a width of 1.5-2.0 and a length of 2.0-2.5. This allows the fabric to stretch without breaking the threads. For seams that need extra strength, use a three-step zigzag stitch. This gives you flexibility while maintaining durability.
How to stick lace on fabric?
Start by using temporary fabric adhesive spray. Apply it lightly to prevent staining. Pin the lace in place for extra security. Then sew around the edges using a zigzag stitch. For permanent attachment, use a wash-away stabilizer underneath. Always test the adhesive on a scrap piece first to ensure it won’t damage your lace.
How do you hem stretchy lace?
The easiest way to hem stretch lace is using fold-over elastic. Another option is a rolled hem using your serger. If using a regular machine, try a narrow zigzag stitch with the hem folded under 1/4 inch. Always test on a scrap piece first. Take your time and use plenty of pins to keep everything in place while sewing.
What stitch to use on lace?
For regular lace, use a straight stitch at 1.5-2.0 length. For stretch lace, always choose a zigzag stitch. Delicate laces need smaller stitches to prevent damage. When working with heavier laces, you can use a slightly longer stitch length. Remember to adjust your tension for the best results.
How to stabilize stretchy fabric?
There are several effective methods to stabilize stretchy fabric. Start by using interfacing designed specifically for stretch fabrics. Stay-tape critical seams that need extra support. Add clear elastic to edges that need structure. For large areas, use power mesh as a backing. Always pre-test these methods on fabric scraps.
Ready to Try More Lingerie Projects?
Once you’ve mastered sewing stretch lace for lingerie, you might want to explore more projects. The techniques you’ve learned here work wonderfully for other items like camisoles, slips, and even swimwear, as many swimsuit Master the Art of Drafting a Coat Pattern From Scratch: A Tailor’s Guide”>sewing techniques are similar to lingerie construction.
With practice, you’ll find that working with stretch lace becomes second nature. Your handmade lingerie collection will grow with beautiful, comfortable pieces that fit perfectly and look professionally made.
Ready to start sewing? Gather your supplies, follow these steps, and enjoy creating beautiful lingerie with perfectly applied stretch lace!