Are you tired of those pesky armhole facings that keep flipping to the outside of your sleeveless dresses? Nothing ruins the look of a beautiful dress faster than facings that won’t stay put. The good news is there’s a solution that doesn’t require constant adjusting or hand sewing. In this guide, I’ll show you how to sew shaped all-in-one facings that stay perfectly in place wash after wash.
This technique combines the neckline and armhole facings into one piece that fits like a dream. It’s a vintage method with a modern twist that eliminates the need for hand stitching. Let’s dive in and transform how you finish your sleeveless garments forever!
What You’ll Need
Before we start, gather these simple supplies:
| Supply | Purpose |
|---|---|
| Sleeveless dress pattern | Base pattern (one with center back zipper works best) |
| Tracing paper | For drafting the facing pattern |
| Pencil or pen | For tracing |
| Ruler | For measuring |
| Fabric for facing | Same as your dress fabric |
| Interfacing | To add stability to your facing |
| Regular sewing supplies | Pins, scissors, sewing machine, etc. |
Why All-in-One Facings Are Better
Traditional separate facings for necklines and armholes tend to flip outward because they’re not connected. When you create an all-in-one facing, the entire piece stays in place because it has more weight and structure.
The method I’m sharing creates a clean finish on both the neckline and armholes without any hand sewing. Even better, the facing edges won’t ever peek out from your dress, giving you a professional finish every time.
Creating Your All-in-One Facing Pattern
Let’s start by making our custom facing pattern pieces:
For the Front Facing
Place tracing paper over your front bodice pattern. Trace the neckline, shoulders, and armhole edges. Extend the tracing about three inches down from both the center front and armhole.
Draw a gentle curve connecting these points to create the bottom edge of your facing. This curve should be roughly parallel to your neckline and armhole edges.
Mark the center front, notches, and grain line just like the original pattern.
The secret to a perfectly fitting facing: trim about 1/8 inch off the neckline and armhole edges of your pattern. This minor tweak encourages the facing to roll subtly toward the inside of the garment, rather than turning outward.
For the Back Facing
Follow the same steps for the back bodice piece. If your pattern has a neckline dart, you’ll need to deal with it first.
The simplest method is to just fold the dart shut while tracing your pattern. This effortlessly shifts the dart aside without needing any complicated pattern modifications.
Just like with the front facing, trim 1/8 inch from the neckline and armhole edges after you’ve created your pattern piece.
Cutting and Preparing Your Facings
Cut your facing pieces from both fashion fabric and interfacing:
- Cut one front facing on the fold
- Cut two back facings (for the zipper opening)
Apply interfacing to all facing pieces according to the manufacturer’s instructions. This adds structure and helps prevent the facings from rolling outward.
The Magic Construction Method
Now let’s put everything together with this special technique:
Step 1: Sew the Shoulder Seams
Start by sewing the shoulder seams of your main bodice pieces. Press these seams open.
Next, stitch the shoulder seams on your facing pieces. Press these open as well.
Step 2: Finish the Bottom Edge (Optional)
You can finish the bottom edge of your facing now using a serger, narrow hem, or binding. This step is optional at this point—you can also wait until the end.
Step 3: Attach the Facing at the Neckline
With right sides together, pin the facing to the bodice along the neckline edge. Sew around the entire neckline.
Trim and grade the seam allowance, clipping curves as needed for a smooth edge. Press the seam allowance toward the facing.
Step 4: Understitch the Neckline
This key step prevents the facing from turning outward. Understitch by sewing through the facing and seam allowance about 1/8 inch from the seam line.
Step 5: The Armhole Magic
Here’s where the magic happens! With the neckline attached but the armholes still free:
- Turn the bodice and facing so the right sides are together again
- Pin and sew around each armhole completely
- Trim and grade the Ultimate Guide To Drafting a Flawless V-Neck Pattern”>seam allowances and clip curves
- Understitch as much of the armholes as you can reach
Step 6: The Special Turning Technique
Now your project looks like a closed tube, and you might wonder how to get it right side out. Here’s the trick:
- Reach through one shoulder opening
- Grab the back of the garment
- Gently pull it through the shoulder tunnel
- Repeat for the other side if needed
This clever method turns the entire bodice right side out through the shoulder!
Finishing Touches
Once everything is right side out, press your neckline and armholes carefully. The facings should now lay perfectly flat against the inside of your garment.
If you’re adding a zipper at the center back, follow your pattern’s instructions for installation. The all-in-one facing works with any center back zipper method.
Why This Method Works So Well
The success of this technique comes from several key elements:
- The all-in-one design creates a continuous piece that can’t flip out
- Trimming 1/8 inch from pattern edges creates a slight roll inward
- Understitching secures the facing in its proper position
- Turning the garment through the shoulder eliminates the need for hand stitching.
- Interfacing adds just the right amount of stability
Frequently Asked Questions About Sewing Facings
How to make a pattern for facing?
Making a facing pattern is simpler than you might think. Start by tracing the edge of your garment pattern onto paper. Extend this tracing inward by 2-3 inches for most facings. For necklines, trace the shoulder areas too. Always mark the grainline and add seam allowances. Remember to label your pattern pieces clearly. Double-check your measurements before cutting your fabric.
What are the 5 types of facing?
The first type is shaped facing, which works best for necklines and armholes. Extended facing is perfect for front openings and button plackets. Bias facing is ideal for curved edges and gives excellent flexibility. All-in-one facing combines neckline and armhole finishing in one piece. Lastly, strip facing works well for straight edges and simple finishes. Every variety has a distinct role in the construction of garments.
How to stitch a neckline for beginners?
Start by pinning your facing to the neckline, right sides together. Stitch slowly using a 5/8 inch seam allowance. Trim the seam and clip curves to reduce bulk. Press the seam flat first. Turn the facing to the inside and press again. Finally, understitch to keep the facing from rolling out. Take your time with each step. Good pressing makes a huge difference in the final look.
How to make a faced opening?
To create a faced opening, cut your facing piece slightly larger than the opening. Interface the facing for stability. Pin facing to the main fabric, right sides together. Stitch around the opening carefully. Clip corners or curves for smooth turning. Turn right side out through the opening. Press well for a professional finish. Secure the facing with understitching for best results.
What is facing technique?
Facing is a finishing method that creates clean edges on garments. It uses an extra piece of fabric cut to match the edge shape. This piece is sewn to the garment’s edge and turned to the inside. It hides raw edges and adds structure to your garment. Think of it as creating a smooth frame for your garment’s openings. This technique gives your projects a professional, store-bought look.
Call to Action
Now it’s your turn to try this game-changing technique on your next sleeveless dress or top! Say goodbye to flipping facings and hello to professional-looking finishes every time.
Take a photo of your finished project and share it online with the hashtag #AllInOneFacing. I’d love to see how this technique transforms your sewing projects!
Do you have questions about this method? Let me know in the comments below, and I’ll help you troubleshoot any issues you might encounter.
Happy sewing!