Have you ever wanted to sew a piece of clothing that looks stylish, feels incredibly cozy, and makes you look like a sewing expert? The shawl collar cardigan is that perfect project. With its beautiful, flowing collar that drapes around your neck, it looks much more complicated to make than it really is.
Many people think sewing a collar like this is tricky, but I’m here to share a secret: it’s surprisingly simple! With a good pattern and a few key techniques, you can learn how to sew a shawl collar cardigan that looks store-bought. This guide will walk you through every step, from picking the right fabric to getting a perfect fit. Let’s get started on making your new favorite cozy cardigan.
Choosing Your Pattern and Fabric
The first step to a great cardigan is choosing the right materials. For a shawl collar style, you’ll want a pattern designed for it, like the popular McCall’s M7254. These patterns are cleverly designed to make the collar construction easy.
The most important choice, however, is your fabric. Shawl collar cardigans are usually made from knit fabrics because they are stretchy and comfortable. You’ll want a structured knit, which is a bit more stable and less flimsy than other knits. This helps the collar keep its beautiful shape.
Look for a knit fabric that has about 25% stretch. This means if you take 4 inches of fabric, it should stretch to 5 inches.
| Fabric Type | Why It Works Well |
|---|---|
| Sweater Knit | The classic choice. It’s cozy, warm, and looks just right for a cardigan. |
| Interlock Knit | A double-knit fabric that’s stable and easy to sew. It’s smooth on both sides. |
| French Terry | Has a smooth front and looped back. It’s comfy and gives the cardigan a relaxed feel. |
| Ponte de Roma | A thick, stable knit that holds its shape beautifully and is very easy to handle. |
The Basic Cardigan Construction
Before we get to the famous collar, you need to build the main body of the cardigan. This part is very straightforward.
You will start with your front and back pattern pieces. Simply place the front pieces on top of the back piece with the right sides of the fabric facing each other. Sew the shoulder seams first. A great pro tip is to add a small strip of clear elastic or interfacing inside the shoulder seam as you sew. This stabilizes the seam and stops it from stretching out over time.
After sewing the shoulders, sew the side seams. In just a few minutes, you’ll have the basic shape of your cardigan ready for its collar.
The Secret to the Shawl Collar
Now for the magic part! The shawl collar is usually made from one long, curved band. You’ll cut two of these band pieces from your fabric. These two pieces will be sewn together to create a double-layered collar that looks clean and professional from both the inside and the outside.
To give the collar a bit of body and help it lay flat, it’s a good idea to apply a lightweight stretch interfacing to one of the two collar pieces. This interfaced piece will be the “outer” collar that everyone sees.
Once one piece is interfaced, place the two collar pieces with their right sides together and sew all the way around the long, outer curve. This creates a giant fabric loop. After sewing, trim the seam allowance to reduce bulk, and turn it right side out.
Pro Techniques for a Polished Finish
Two simple techniques will take your cardigan from looking homemade to looking professionally handmade: understitching and topstitching.
The Magic of Understitching
Understitching is a line of stitching that you sew close to the seam on the inside of the collar. Its job is to keep the inner layer of fabric from rolling to the outside and peeking out.
After you’ve sewn your two collar pieces together, press the seam allowance toward the non-interfaced (inside) piece. Then, from the right side, stitch that seam allowance down. This simple step is the key to a sharp, clean collar edge. You only need to understitch the part of the collar that will be visible when you wear it.
When to Add Topstitching
After attaching the entire collar unit to the cardigan body, you will have a seam that can be a bit bulky, especially with thicker sweater knits. Topstitching can fix this.
A line of topstitching sewn about a quarter of an inch from the seam will help it lie flat and give it a crisp, neat appearance. The stitches often sink into fuzzy knit fabric, so they add function without being too noticeable.
Getting the Perfect Fit
One of the biggest challenges in sewing is getting the fit just right. It’s common to make a cardigan and find the shoulders are a bit too wide or the body is a little too loose. Don’t worry! These are easy things to fix.
When you’re choosing your size, look at the “finished garment measurements” on the pattern envelope. This tells you the final size of the cardigan. Compare this to your own body measurements to decide how much “ease” or extra room you want.
If you make your cardigan and it feels too big, try it on inside out. Pin the side seams in until it feels right. You can also pin the sleeve seams to make them narrower. Then, simply sew along your pin lines to take it in.
For shoulders that are too wide or “dropped,” there is a clever trick. You can sew a small dart at the shoulder seam. Because the shawl collar folds over this area, the dart will be completely hidden! This pulls the shoulder in for a perfect fit without anyone knowing your secret.
FAQs
How to make a shawl collar?
You make a shawl collar by sewing a special piece to the neckline. This piece is a long, curved band. You attach it to the main body of the cardigan. Then you fold it over. This creates the soft, rolling collar shape.
What is the meaning of a shawl collar cardigan?
A shawl collar cardigan is a type of sweater. It has a continuous, rounded collar. There are no sharp points on this collar. It drapes smoothly from the front, around the back of your neck.
What is the purpose of a shawl collar?
A shawl collar adds style and warmth. Its curved shape looks very elegant. It frames your face nicely. It also helps keep your neck cozy and warm on cool days.
What do you call a cardigan with a collar?
A cardigan with this type of collar is called a shawl collar cardigan. This is the most common name for this cozy style. It is a very popular and classic design.
How to sew a perfect collar?
To sew a perfect collar, always use interfacing. This helps the collar hold its shape. Press your seams well with an iron. Understitching is a key step for a neat edge. Always sew slowly for the best results.
Enjoy Your Cozy Shawl Collar Cardigan
And that’s it! By following these simple steps, you have learned how to sew a shawl collar cardigan. What once looked like a complex designer detail is now a skill you can use again and again. You can create cozy, stylish cardigans for yourself and your loved ones.
The beauty of this project is in its simple construction and the professional touch you can add with techniques like understitching. Now you can enjoy wrapping yourself in a warm, comfy cardigan that you made with your own two hands.
We’d love to see what you create! Feel free to share a photo of your finished shawl collar cardigan in the comments below. Happy sewing